I have lived in Vancouver for 29 years and had never visited Whistler. Most people here would simply gasp at that, but it is true. We don’t ski or board or ride a mountain bike, and we already get to see a lot of beautiful mountains every day; so why bother to go to Whistler?
But it was our anniversary this week, we like to give each other experiences rather than things, and they have a train service to the village: so why not?
In North America, at least, train travel is an expensive proposition; and it is no different on the Whistler Mountaineer. But it is definitely worth it. It takes about three hours to get from North Vancouver to Whistler and the train folks treat you well every mile of the way. The views are spectacular and the train slows or stops for all the major scenic attractions — Porteau Cove, Brandywine Falls, Chickamous Canyon, etc. The seats are comfortable and the service is good, with the attendants acting both as servers and as knowledgable travel guides.
And then there is Whistler itself. Built in the style of a classic alpine village, the main part of Whistler is a long and winding pedestrian-only street, generally called the Village Stroll. Most of the hotels have entrances on the Stroll as do most of the restaurants and stores. It is pretty enough, and they sure go to some lengths to keep it clean and litter-free. But to be honest, I didn’t much care for it.
My feeling was that I was in one of those large Vegas hotels, like the Venetian, where the entertainment and facilities are built along faux streets with faux sky ceilings. Or like Downtown Disney near Orlando, Florida.
The trip in the gondola to the top of the mountain was fun — my wife very bravely fighting back her fear of heights — but it was cold and rainy at the lodge and so the views were limited (being in shorts and a t-shirt didn’t help either!).
One of the great pleasures, though, was the food. We had dinner at Ric’s Grill and it was superb. A pleasant room, in chocolate tones, with a mix of booths and free-standing tables, the service was good and the food even better. I had a Filet Gorgonzola served in a Merlot reduction. It was served blue as requested and was one of the finest meals it has been my pleasure to enjoy. My anniversary gal had a seafood mixed grill that she declared to be excellent.
Ric’s also has a separate bar, called the Mix, where breakfast is served. The classic benedicts were almost as good as the dinner the night before. Hard to recommend this too highly.
All in all it was well worth the trip (especially the train ride for me) and I know one would get much more out of it if one got into the activities that are available — biking, rafting, trekking, etc — or were young enough to fully appreciate the nightlife and apres-ski atmosphere. For me, for a relaxing day, I might catch the train in the morning, spend a couple of hours in the Village, and then return on the train in the afternoon. That would be a treat.
Posted by jakking 
